Showing posts with label New Canaan. Show all posts
Showing posts with label New Canaan. Show all posts

Tuesday, February 3, 2015

Happy Birthday Robert Burns: Rare Scotch & Rarefied Cuisine at Boulevard 18

Robert Burns Day, a celebration of the Scottish poet's birthday, is a holiday celebrated around the world. This year, I had the opportunity to attend such a celebration at Boulevard 18 Bistro & Wine Bar in New Canaan, Connecticut, and it was a truly special evening of rare scotch and fabulous food. The delights began as soon as I entered the restaurant, with warm greetings, passed Smoked Scottish Salmon Canapés topped with tobiko and capers, and a "Welcome Cocktail" crafted from scotch and black walnut bitters with orange zest.


After mingling for a bit, we settled in at our table, and introductions were made. The evening was led by the impressively knowledgable Alex Meier-Tomkins, Portfolio Manager for Slocum & Sons Importers, with accompaning commentary by co-owners Henry Rosenbaum and Steven Semaya. Excited as I was, the evening managed to exceed my expectations. Our first course, a Scotch Egg with Tolouse Sausage and Brioche Crumbs, was paired with Glen Rothes 2001 Vintage, Speyside. Meier-Tompkins explained that this scotch is aged in sherry casks, which impart a toffee and spice flavor which rounded out this richly savory dish perfectly.


The second course, Pancetta-Wrapped Monkfish with shiitake mushrooms, brussels sprouts, fingerling potatoes, and a scotch-sherry buerre blanc, was accompanied by two very special glasses of Speyside scotch: Glendronach 15 yr, Highland and BenRiach 15 yr ‘Sauternes Cask Finish,' Speyside. Meier-Tomkins explained that the Glendronach had been aged in fresh sherry casks, imparting spicy sweet notes, and it was indeed was smooth and sweet, bringing out the flavors of smoky pancetta and meaty monkfish. There is serious talent in Chefs (and co-owners) David Raymer and Luciano Ramirez's kitchen.


Happily warm with scotch, I dug into the final course, Roasted Venison with haricot vert, parsnip purée, and coffee-chocolate sauce. The scotch pairings for this dish, Meier-Tomkins explained, were extremely rare selections from Campbelltown: Springbank ‘Cask Strength’ 12 Year, of which there are only 48 bottles in the United States, and Longrow 15 Year ‘Burgundy Wood Finish," one of only 19 bottles in the United States. What a treat to try them both! The Springbank was particularly striking when paired with the deliciously rich and tender venison. This was by far the best venison I have ever experienced, and the sauce so good I would have licked the plate if it were remotely appropriate to do so!


Full and impressed, I nibbled on dessert, a rich Chocolate-Fig-Hazelnut Brownie topped with chocolate Ice Cream and whisky (of course) hot fudge. Sipping on the last scotch of the evening keeping with the food centric theme of the evening, BenRiach ‘Solstice’ 17 yr (Peated w/ Port Cask Finish), Speyside the room was treated to a reading of Burns' poem "Address to a Haggis," made extra special by the presence of a guest who offered was able to recite it in the traditional Scottish brogue.

New Canaan has quite a gem in Boulevard 18, and I highly recommend a visit. These types of dinners take a lot of effort and planning to host, and this one was was carried out seamlessly. The food was excellent, the owners enthusiastic and kind, and the service on point. Boulevard 18's cozy dining room is the perfect setting for an intimate night out. With Valentine's Day on the way, they've created another incredible menu; check it out here and make a reservation!


Boulevard 18 Bistro & Wine Bar is located at 62 Main Street, New Canaan, CT 06840
Follow them on Facebook and Instagram

Thursday, October 16, 2014

Fall Wine Dinner at Picador in New Canaan: an Intimate Evening of Fine Fare and Libations

Picador in New Canaan already has a solid standing on my list of favorite restaurants, and after their Wine Dinner earlier this week, my enthusiasm has only increased. The evening ran so smoothly, and I learned much more about wine than I have at any wine tasting. The Head Chef, Frank Barrese, outdid himself with the evening's menu, and it was a pleasure to overhear the comments of other guests; I was clearly not the only one who had a fabulous time.

Upon arrival, guests were welcomed by Picador's owner, Ray Rivera, directed to a lovely spread of cheeseboards, and handed a glass of Schramsberg Blanc de Blancs. Jana Waite, a representative from Eder Brothers, shared details and tasting notes about each wine throughout the evening, and explained that Schramsberg is served at the White House to international guests. The room buzzed with anticipation and guests mingled happily. As the restaurant filled, we drifted to our seats, and soon the main event was underway.

                 

A delicious glass of Stags Leap Chardonnay set the stage for the first course of the evening, seared diver scallops with butternut squash and borsin au gratin. I was excited to try these from the moment I first saw the menu, as I had experienced some of Chef Barrese's other scallop dishes, and this interpretation lived up to my high expectations. The scallops were tender, delicately sweet, and quickly gone from my plate.

                

While we ate, Jana explained that the Chardonnay we were drinking was a great choice for this kind of meal, as it goes well with both seafood and meats, as it is crisp and not too sweet. The flavors of the wine, she continued, open up as the wine warms to room temperature, and she was absolutely right. I am a Chardonnay drinker, and this was excellent. 

                

The second course, braised oxtail stew, arrived next. I was impressed by the timing of the courses; often at these kinds of dinners, everything arrives too rapidly, and you feel both rushed and stuffed right away. The leisurely pace of Picador's dinner made for a markedly more pleasurable experience. 

Callejo Crianza accompanied the stew, and when Jana stopped by our table, we asked several questions about what it means when wine has "legs" and why you tip the wine to the side of the glass to see the color of the liquid's edge. Jana is a great teacher and is amazingly knowledgeable; she explained that the longer a wine is aged, and the warmer the climate, the more it evaporates and becomes thick, which is why it both clings to the inside of the glass and doesn't have a clear edge when tipped in the glass.

                

My taste buds, already thrilled, found themselves in heaven upon tasting the third course, a dry brined bone in rib eye with foie gras twice baked potato and rosemary demi glace. This was the best steak I have ever had. It was tender, juicy, and incredibly flavorful. I completely ignored the rest of my group and gave all my attention to this dish, all social graces forgotten. The twice baked potato was equally enticing, and I finished it and then stole some of my date's, too. Paired with a glass of Silverado Cabernet, the flavors came together for a seriously memorable main course.

               

The man behind the magic, Head Chef Frank Barrese, emerged shyly from the kitchen at the urging of Ray, and accepted his well deserved applause from the room. Everyone was impressed. Barrese is a gifted chef, and I have yet to be anything less than wowed by his creations.

                 

Spanish sherry and a goat cheese custard topped with strawberries and hazelnuts finished off the meal, and Jana shared some final words about the great wines we had experienced, all of which are available at Stewart's Wines in New Canaan. Ray, always a gracious host, continued to mingle with guests, and the beaming smiles on everyone's faces served as further proof that the evening had been a great success. 

If you missed this dinner, never fear - there is a beer dinner in the works! Sign up for Picador's newsletter to be alerted when more details are available. 

Picador is located at 15 Elm Street, New Canaan, CT
Call 203 972 9999 for reservations, or find them on opentable
Follow them on facebooktwitter and instagram

Tuesday, August 19, 2014

A Talent for Tapas and Service That Shines: A Review of Picador in New Canaan, CT

Reading the menu at Picador in New Canaan, Connecticut results in an immediate desire to try everything. From seared scallops to inventive salads and desserts, it's impossible to choose. Luckily, Picador's specialty is tapas, and it's possible to try a wide range of their delicious dishes.

The intimate dining room is comfortable and relaxed, and the presence of the owner makes each guest feel welcome and special. I always appreciate the extra dynamic that an enthusiastic and passionate owner adds to a dining experience, and Ray Rivera provides exactly that.

A meal at Picador is an exciting one, as each dish arrives beautifully presented and their fabulous flavors more than amply fulfill their visual promise. I had the pleasure of sampling seven of Chef Frank Barrese's magical creations, and each new dish was impressive as the last.

We started with Garroxta, a cave aged raw goat's milk cheese produced in the Catalonia region of northern Spain, paired with Marcona almonds, golden raisins, and a sweet apricot puree. The combination of tangy cheese and the sweetly nutty crunch of the almonds was an intriguing pairing of flavors, which, when paired with the Moscato wine suggested by Ray's right hand man, Matt Hernandez, absolutely shone.


When a dish makes you close your eyes and be briefly transported, you know there's real magic going on. Chef Barrese must be a magician, because his Spanish style baked egg with tomato, currants, and chorizo paired with skirt steak and tomatillo salsa provoked such a reaction. The perfectly runny egg yolk flowed into the hearty sauce, and the smoky chorizo brought the dish to a new level of culinary ecstasy. Thinly sliced and tender skirt steak was an indulgent addition, and I was amazed by how such simple ingredients could come together and create something so complex.


It was too difficult to choose between the two scallop dishes on the menu, so of course I tried both. First, seared scallops over truffled cauliflower purée, which was light and bright, with the delicate truffle flavor complementing the tender scallops. Next, chorizo crusted scallops with saffron aioli and Piquillo puree. The combination of salty smoke and sweet fresh scallops was addictive. Add the aioli and puree, and the four flavors come together to make an already excellent dish even better.



Seafood is a favorite of mine, so the trend continued with beer steamed mussels with charred orange, coriander, shaved radish, and a side of crusty bread. These went far beyond the all too common lemony wine broth that often accompanies steamed mussels, and I highly recommend the dish. Sweet orange, and a tang of coriander are not flavors I have encountered before, and they really complement the delicate flesh of mussels.



After loving the cauliflower that came with the scallops, I was excited to try another dish featuring them. Chef Barrese continued to impress with ricotta gnudi and cauliflower with sage and pine nuts in brown butter. The pillowy gnudi was delicately sweet, and the savory sage and butter balanced the dish just right. I couldn't get enough of the cauliflower, and almost asked for another plate of the lightly browned florets. 


I ended on a carnivorous note with filet mignon tips a la plancha with hot cherry pepper, Spanish barbecue sauce and melted Mahon cheese. This put me in a blissful food coma. This dish is a must have, and is, in fact, one of Ray's personal favorites. I can certainly understand why, though I would have a hard time selecting a favorite from Chef Barrese's impressive arsenal of dishes. 


There are great things happening in the kitchen at Picador, and I look forward to seeing more of Ray and his talented staff's special passion for food which informs each dish and each element of the overall dining experience. Picador is a shining star in the Fairfield County dining scene, and I expect it will only continue to burn bright. For a fabulous tapas experience, I cannot recommend this charming spot highly enough. 

Picador is located at 15 Elm Street, New Canaan, CT. Call 203-972-9999 for reservations. 
Click here for their menu.




Saturday, April 19, 2014

Sinfully Good Sips at South End in New Canaan

South End, a restaurant and bar in New Canaan, Connecticut, is a can't-miss spot no matter what your restaurant "must haves" are. From a casually upscale interior to Chef Nick Martschenko's menu of dishes that are so good you could just close your eyes, point, and be pleased, and a bar program that's a Fairfield County standout headed up by the charming Sean Nye, its no wonder that it's a hopping spot every day of the week.

While I could wax poetic about Chef Martschenko's cooking (Try the meatballs. Just do it.), my most recent visit focused exclusively on their cocktails. Sean Nye, the face of South End's inventive cocktail menu, treated me to a memorable flight of 5 drinks, some of which are new additions for spring, while others, like the bloody mary, are ongoing house favorites.

As Nye began mixing, grabbing bottles, clinking ice into glasses, shaking, and stirring, he explained some of the things that make the cocktails at South End unique. First, his personal philosophy that it's possible to make a great tasting drink that's still nice and boozy. It's not necessary to mask alcohol with syrupy sweetness or make a drink palatable for an inexperienced drinker by going light on it, but on the flip-side, he doesn't make drinks that feature alcohol as their primary flavor note. Lucky me, as my favorite drink is one where I know it's good and strong, but it's flavorful enough to be pleasant to drink. Yes, I can appreciate the flavors when drinking whiskey neat, but it's not something I find particularly pleasurable. 

The second standout element of the bar program at South End is the use of fresh and house-made ingredients. The bacon in the bloody mary is house smoked, the mix is made from scratch, and it's topped with bright green micro-cilantro. The pineapple juice in the Mai Tai isn't from a can, it's juiced right there. The difference is clear. You're drinking a quality product, made with care and thought. 


On to the drinks. First, a refreshing concoction (as of now, still unnamed - Nye takes the time to invent creative monikers, usually with a touch of sass or humor) of Giffard Pamplemousse Rose Liquer, Vizcaya Cristal Rum, and a touch of Hum Botanical Spirit. I was genuinely blown away by this one. The first sip tastes like the offspring of grapefruit juice and lemonade, and a second sip reveals the undertones of vanilla in the rum (oak barrel aged, then filtered so it's completely clear) and the interesting combination of hibiscus, ginger, cardamom and kaffir lime in the Hum Liqueur. It's the kind of drink that makes you pause and think as you try to discern all the things you're tasting. I've really never had anything like it, and I could really feel my brain cells firing as it tried to categorize the various elements. I'd happily buy a jug of this drink and then take it to a sunny field for the best picnic libation I have yet to encounter. Sangria, step aside! Chardonnay, to the left!



Next, in the spirit of cocktails meant for sunny days and warm breezes, Nye mixed a hibiscus margarita using a larger amount of the same Hum spirit he used in the previous drink. The difference was surprising; the ginger and hibiscus came through much more than the first drink, and of course, the color was gorgeous. It made for a great twist on a standard drink, and it would be all too easy to put away several of these at a rapid pace. It went perfectly with the fish tacos we had ordered for lunch. 



Next, an in-house barrel aged Manhattan that blows, but by, every other Manhattan I've had out of the water (and I've had quite a few, from California to Connecticut). After aging for several weeks in an oak barrel, the drink is smooth, drinkable, and complex, with a lightly sweet aftertaste. If you like Manhattans, get in the car now and order one. If you don't like them, you need to give this one a try.


Nothing like day drinking! Photo courtesy Jason Varga
Moving along, I tried two very popular drinks: a bloody mary, and a Mai Tai. As I mentioned before, they're both made with fresh, house-made ingredients. The bacon on the bloody mary, smoked in-house, is to die for. This is a great accompaniment to South End's bustling Sunday brunch, and Nye says they have to make many gallons of the "liquid salsa" mix to keep up with the demand.


We ended on a tropical note with the Mai Tai; it's visually pleasing and absolutely delicious. Thanks to the use of fresh pineapple juice as opposed to canned, it's vibrantly pineapple-y and refreshing. Careful, it's strong! Rum mixed in, and a dark rum float.

Good thing there was delicious food to soak up the alcohol: fish tacos and meatballs. From start to finish, at brunch (try the whole wheat oatmeal pancakes with lemon curd and blueberries), lunch or dinner, South End is memorable. Take the trip to New Canaan, order a cocktail, settle in, and prepare to be impressed.
South End is located at 36 Pine Street, New Canaan, CT 06840. Call 203-966-5200 for reservations.
Cocktail photos courtesy South End