South Norwalk's Washington Prime: Steaks and Seafood Served in Style

Update April 2015: Head Chef Jared Falco has left Washington Prime, and is now in the kitchen at Amore Cucina in Stamford, CT. 

The newest hotspot in South Norwalk's rapidly growing dining and nightlife scene, Washington Prime, has been attracting crowds since it opened in late July. It's not hard to see why, as it dominates the end of Washington Street with a trendy exterior and couch-clad patio, and serves up expertly prepared and presented dishes from Executive Chef Jared George Falco. From a large horseshoe bar to high ceilinged dining room and ample outdoor seating, Washington Prime's customers range from suited corporate types at the bar to groups of 30-somethings and happy couples out for date night. The ambiance suits them all, as the space features both cozy booths, long tables, and a patio that's great for happy hour mingling.

Of course, a pretty face isn't enough without a great meal to back it up. Luckily, Executive Chef Falco has the culinary chops to back up a space that sets the expectations high. 

We began our meal with a series of small plates. First, Lobster Bisque with Parsley Creme Fraiche, which was richly flavored without, surprisingly, the use of any cream (besides the crowning dollop). Falco explained how he achieves this; by boiling all the lobster shells to create an intense stock. 

Next, Burrata topped with creamy slaw, sambal aioli, and sesame atop pretzel bread, which is baked locally at Wave Hill Breads from Falco's own recipe. The combination of cool creamy burrata and crunchy slaw was nicely accented with the slight spice of sambal. 

It speaks well for a restaurant when it's difficult to capture images of the food before the dish is attacked by an excited table of foodies. Deviled eggs with creamy yolk, prime meatball, pickled onions, and foie gras powder were snatched up immediately and enjoyed by all. The yolk was nicely seasoned, and the use of a slate slab instead of a plate was a nice, attractive touch. 

A heaping serving of poutine was similarly well received, the thick cut house fries topped with cheese curds and oxtail ragu were hearty and filling; don't order this dish and then expect to put away an entire steak!

Standouts of the night were the three seafood dishes: octopus with spicy pickled peppers, duck fat potatoes, and pepper emulsion, scallops with middlins, corn relish, nicoise olives, and hunters sauce, and grouper with Carolina gold rice, tomato, asparagus, and carrot butter sauce. When I go to a restaurant and they have either scallops or octopus on the menu, I always order one (or both), because I think they are both difficult to prepare well, and are a great gauge of the chef's talent. In the case of Washington Prime, I was absolutely impressed by both dishes.

The scallops were tender and flavorful, but not so much that their delicate sweetness was compromised. The rice, I thought, was an unnecessary addition that distracted from the star of the dish. 

The grouper, too, was flaky and moist, with a buttery carrot sauce and still crisp asparagus that made for a winning combination. 

Our final treat from the sea, lobster knuckle and claw with blue corn grits and tobiko, was quickly devoured; the tender meat and salty bursts of tobiko were addictive. 

Two salads, the prime wedge and the chop chop, were good but not remarkable, though the pickled heirloom tomatoes that came with the wedge were delicious. The chop chop was described as being dressed in red wine vinaigrette but had a somewhat creamy and cheesy tasting dressing that was not to my liking. 

Of course, a visit to a steakhouse would not be complete without a solid dose of red meat, and we tried both the filet mignon and the ribeye, both of which were deliciously pink and juicy in the center. The filet mignon was tender, and the ribeye has just the right combination of fattiness and meatiness - definitely my favorite cut, both at home and in the case of this dinner. Steaks at Washinton Prime are served with a choice of one of their sauces: prime steak sauce, horseradish cream, bernaise sauce, maple truffle chili sauce, chimiccuri sauce, or umami bomb sauce. We had the pleasure of trying them all, and I honestly cannot choose a favorite, as they were all delicious (and made for a pretty plate).  I would happily dip french fries into any of them. 

Despite being full to bursting, we couldn't resist dessert. A caramel crowned, chocolate covered cake and ice cream combo, chocolate chip cookie ice cream sandwich served with cereal milk, and a slice of one of the best cheesecakes I have ever had. It was difficult to resist gobbling it all up, sharing be damned! I highly recommend saving room for dessert. 

Washington Prime is definitely worth a visit, whether you favor steaks, seafood, or a sampling of small plates. Attentive servers and delicious cocktails rounded out our experience and made for a truly enjoyable evening. 

 Washington Prime is located at 141 Washington Street in South Norwalk, CT

Phone: 203-857-1314
Images credit Jason Varga

An Affair to Remember: The Mark Twain Library's First Annual Pudd'nhead Prize Gala

Friends, neighbors, and celebrities came together on Saturday, September 20th to support Redding's Mark Twain Library and honor the first ever recipient of "The Pudd'nhead Prize," cartoonist Roz Chast. Perfect September weather set the stage for a magical evening at In Situ, an 8 acre property that has been featured on HGTV's Top Ten and published in Architectural Digest and Metropolitan Home. 

The event, intended to be a celebration of creativity and wit, was the brainchild of comedian, actor, and author Michael Ian Black. Drawing inspiration from the work of Redding's own Mark Twain, the First Annual Pudd'nhead Prize was born. Roz Chast, celebrated New Yorker cartoonist and Ridgefield resident known for her wry wit and humorously neurotic characters, was the first recipient of the prize and honored guest of the evening. 

Michael Marocco, owner of In Situ, offered up his stunning property for the evening, and teamed up with Mark Twain Library Board members Jennifer Wastrom and Pam Robey to bring a fantastic idea to fruition. To say that the evening was a success is an understatement; from the first step into the garden to the last bite of dinner (catered by Bedford, New York's Dinner Thyme) and chuckle at the bantering of Michael Ian Black and Roz Chast, a truly memorable and special evening was clearly had by all. The energy in the air was full of gaiety and appreciation. 

Clockwise from top right:
William Fusco & ME, First Selectwoman Julia Pemberton, Christine Glidden & Bill King, Sandra Alvaran & Marilena Miller, Amy Nonnamacher, Betsy Higgins (Library Treasurer) & Beth Dominianni (Library Director)

125 guests spent the evening wandering the extensive gardens, enjoying drinks and live music by the swimming pool, and mingling with several celebrity guests including Alexis Bledel from Gilmore Girls and her Mad Men star husband Vincent Kartheiser, Mo Rocca of NPR's "Wait Wait Don't Tell Me," and Saturday Night Live's Ana Gastayer. Notable Redding residents were also in attendance, including First Selectwoman Julia Pemberton and sculptor Babette Bloch, whose work is featured on the property. 

Top, from left to right: Alexis Bledel, Pam Robey, Brian Spears, and Vincent Kartheiser
Bottom, from left to right: Bill Keith, Ana Gasteyer, Michael Ian Black, Mo Rocca

Michael Ian Black emceed the evening; Roz Chast accepts her prize
 & signs a copy of her new memoir for Kurt Fuller of ABC's new series Manhattan Love Story

After a delicious dinner, guests gathered at the patio for the presentation of the Pudd'nhead prize (a giant spoon, suitable for consuming large doses of pudding, of course) and a signing of Roz Chast's new Memoir, "Can't We Talk About Something More Pleasant?" Live music by Kelly Mittleman, whose knowledge and enthusiasm played an important part in the planning of the event, serenaded the end of the stylish evening. 

Attending such a lovely event was an experience to remember. Having admired Roz Chast's work since middle school, it was quite exciting to tell her face to face how much her cartoons had affected me and made me feel better about my own somewhat nutty perspective on the world. Seeing Alexis Bledel in person, whose character Rory in Gilmore Girls was my teenage idol, was also an exciting part of the evening. Strolling In Situ's beautiful gardens and shaking hands with Mo Rocca felt more like a fantasy than reality. I was unable to resist chuckling when my date chose "Wet Hot American Summer" as the project to compliment Michael Ian Black on, as I'm sure Black does not see such a silly film one of his crowning achievements (though personally, I think it's a hilarious movie). 

The Mark Twain Library is an asset to the town of Redding and surrounding areas, bringing many interesting events and programs to residents. Visit their website for more information.

Image credits: 1st Block: Adam Pemberton, 2nd & 4th Blocks, Chris Burns for Mark Twain Library. For a complete gallery of photographs from the event, click here.

A Talent for Tapas and Service That Shines: A Review of Picador in New Canaan, CT

Reading the menu at Picador in New Canaan, Connecticut results in an immediate desire to try everything. From seared scallops to inventive salads and desserts, it's impossible to choose. Luckily, Picador's specialty is tapas, and it's possible to try a wide range of their delicious dishes.

The intimate dining room is comfortable and relaxed, and the presence of the owner makes each guest feel welcome and special. I always appreciate the extra dynamic that an enthusiastic and passionate owner adds to a dining experience, and Ray Rivera provides exactly that.

A meal at Picador is an exciting one, as each dish arrives beautifully presented and their fabulous flavors more than amply fulfill their visual promise. I had the pleasure of sampling seven of Chef Frank Barrese's magical creations, and each new dish was impressive as the last.

We started with Garroxta, a cave aged raw goat's milk cheese produced in the Catalonia region of northern Spain, paired with Marcona almonds, golden raisins, and a sweet apricot puree. The combination of tangy cheese and the sweetly nutty crunch of the almonds was an intriguing pairing of flavors, which, when paired with the Moscato wine suggested by Ray's right hand man, Matt Hernandez, absolutely shone.

When a dish makes you close your eyes and be briefly transported, you know there's real magic going on. Chef Barrese must be a magician, because his Spanish style baked egg with tomato, currants, and chorizo paired with skirt steak and tomatillo salsa provoked such a reaction. The perfectly runny egg yolk flowed into the hearty sauce, and the smoky chorizo brought the dish to a new level of culinary ecstasy. Thinly sliced and tender skirt steak was an indulgent addition, and I was amazed by how such simple ingredients could come together and create something so complex.

It was too difficult to choose between the two scallop dishes on the menu, so of course I tried both. First, seared scallops over truffled cauliflower purée, which was light and bright, with the delicate truffle flavor complementing the tender scallops. Next, chorizo crusted scallops with saffron aioli and Piquillo puree. The combination of salty smoke and sweet fresh scallops was addictive. Add the aioli and puree, and the four flavors come together to make an already excellent dish even better.

Seafood is a favorite of mine, so the trend continued with beer steamed mussels with charred orange, coriander, shaved radish, and a side of crusty bread. These went far beyond the all too common lemony wine broth that often accompanies steamed mussels, and I highly recommend the dish. Sweet orange, and a tang of coriander are not flavors I have encountered before, and they really complement the delicate flesh of mussels.

After loving the cauliflower that came with the scallops, I was excited to try another dish featuring them. Chef Barrese continued to impress with ricotta gnudi and cauliflower with sage and pine nuts in brown butter. The pillowy gnudi was delicately sweet, and the savory sage and butter balanced the dish just right. I couldn't get enough of the cauliflower, and almost asked for another plate of the lightly browned florets. 

I ended on a carnivorous note with filet mignon tips a la plancha with hot cherry pepper, Spanish barbecue sauce and melted Mahon cheese. This put me in a blissful food coma. This dish is a must have, and is, in fact, one of Ray's personal favorites. I can certainly understand why, though I would have a hard time selecting a favorite from Chef Barrese's impressive arsenal of dishes. 

There are great things happening in the kitchen at Picador, and I look forward to seeing more of Ray and his talented staff's special passion for food which informs each dish and each element of the overall dining experience. Picador is a shining star in the Fairfield County dining scene, and I expect it will only continue to burn bright. For a fabulous tapas experience, I cannot recommend this charming spot highly enough. 

Picador is located at 15 Elm Street, New Canaan, CT. Call 203-972-9999 for reservations. 

Click here for their menu.

Upscale Farm to Fork Fare & Spring Cocktails for Sunny Days at Bailey's Backyard

Bailey's Backyard, an intimate farm to table restaurant tucked away on Bailey Avenue in Ridgefield, CT, has been on my "must try" list since last year when they closed temporarily and then reopened with a completely revamped menu and beverage program. Now I can finally say I've experienced Bailey's Backyard, as I attended a tasting dinner for local food writers earlier this week, and am happy to report that the evening of small plates and seasonal cocktails was a pleasure. I understand why so many people have recommended a visit!

The evening began with introductions from Owner Sal Bagliavio, Executive Chef Forrest Pasternack, and beverage program Manager Bryan Walsh; the evenings menu would be showcasing spring menu items as well as Bryan Walsh's new cocktail creations. 

We started with appetizers and selections from the "for the table" portion of the menu. First, Pasternack's take on "Devils on Horseback" - armagnac plums wrapped in meaty North Country bacon, and topped with slices of fresh pear. The combination of sweet and savory, as well as the different textures presented by soft plums and crisp pear worked together very well. Already, the meal was off to a great start. 

A beautifully presented dish of Hawaiian Ahi Tuna Poke with sesame oil, garlic, soy sauce, wakame, black sesame seeds, and puffed wonton was fresh and light. Raw tuna is one of my favorites, and I always order it if it's on the menu - I could eat it completely unadorned, but the sesame oil added a unique element that elevated the dish.  

Two "for the table" dishes arrived, Tempura Vegetables with sweet potato, asparagus, and red onion topped with cashew powder and hoisin sauce, and Zucchini Fries with shaved parmesan, pecan puree, and mint. Both dishes were really nice and crispy (nothing worse than greasy veggies) and each had a unique twist that I enjoyed: the cashew powder on the tempura and pecan puree with the zucchini. I haven't experienced anything like that before, and in both cases the extra touches really made the dishes "pop."

 

The next two dishes were my favorites of the night. First, Chicken Liver & Grand Marnier Pate with apricot, mustard, and thyme toast was perfectly seasoned, and satisfyingly rich without being heavy. If you're a pate fan (or ready to be converted to one), you must order this dish. 

Next, Grilled Asparagus Salad with frisée, prosciutto, black truffle, hollandaise, shaved pecorino, and herbed red wine vinaigrette. I was impressed by how perfectly cooked the asparagus was; slightly charred, al dente, and bright. The vinaigrette added the right amount of tanginess, and the earthiness of black truffles complimented the salty sweet tender prosciutto. 

Goat Cheese Profiteroles with aged balsamic, crispy parmesan, and sun-dried tomato vinaigrette were an interesting twist on a dish traditionally associated with dessert. Chef Pasternack clearly has a creative mind, an eye for presentation, and a talent for combining unexpected flavors in a winning way. 

Now it's time to talk drinks. Bryan Walsh is creating some seriously unique cocktails and doing it with skill and style. We started with the "Six Toed Cat" (a reference to Ernest Hemingway's famous polydactyl cats): blueberry and mint infused rum, lime, fresh mint, and ginger beer. It had a wonderfully prominent blueberry flavor, with a bright purple color to match. Sticking to the Farm to Table and sustainable philosophy of Bailey's Backyard, the straw it is served with is completely biodegradable. A nice touch. 

Next, "Don't Call Me Shirley" (top right): house made citrus vodka, fresh citrus juice, and Cointreau. It tasted like Orangina for grownups! Deliciously strong. 

The "Samuel Clemens": is made with ginger infused vodka, lemon, ginger, club soda, and the completely unexpected addition of black pepper. I was skeptical, but the mix of lemon and pepper actually created a slightly spicy floral scent and flavor. I would never think of putting those ingredients together, but I'm glad Bryan did. 

A final dessert-like drink, "Rude Barbara," made with white rum, strawberry rhubarb puree, and lime, tasted like a strawberry rhubarb tart. Definitely the perfect complement to a warm spring afternoon. 

Entrees arrived, and continued to impress with their unique twists and beautiful presentation. Whipped Foie Gras with Caramelized Onion Perogi, Barolo soaked pearl onions, chive crema, and white truffle and bacon powder was a refined version of hearty Polish comfort food.

A Slow Roasted Suckling Pig with yellow corn fritters, lavender, buttered peas, and cracklin' gravy was so tender it melted in the mouth. The addition of lavender added an intriguing depth of flavor.

My favorite (though it's honestly hard to choose) was the Firecracker Rock Shrimp Scampi with hand-cut linguine, diced shallots, roasted garlic, and meyer lemon. The shrimp were tender, sweet, and lightly battered, while the buttery rich pasta boasted a clean bright pop of tangy meyer lemon.

By the time desserts arrived, we were all full to bursting, but who can resist? We enjoyed a Strawberry and Rhubarb Tart with tasted meringue and Arethusa Farms vanilla ice cream followed by a trio of warm House Made Donuts: almond and chocolate, powdered sugar, and Dulce de Leche with bacon served with a side of pomegranate espresso sauce. 

Bailey's Backyard is a Ridgefield gem. It's truly Farm to Table, dishes are unique and thoughtfully crafted, the staff is attentive but not invasive, and and the space itself is inviting and cozy. It was on my "must try" list; I recommend you add it to yours! 

Bailey's Backyard is located at 23 Bailey Avenue, Ridgefield, CT 06877. Call 203-431-0796 for reservations. 

Sinfully Good Sips at South End in New Canaan

South End, a restaurant and bar in New Canaan, Connecticut, is a can't-miss spot no matter what your restaurant "must haves" are. From a casually upscale interior to Chef Nick Martschenko's menu of dishes that are so good you could just close your eyes, point, and be pleased, and a bar program that's a Fairfield County standout headed up by the charming Sean Nye, its no wonder that it's a hopping spot every day of the week.

While I could wax poetic about Chef Martschenko's cooking (Try the meatballs. Just do it.), my most recent visit focused exclusively on their cocktails. Sean Nye, the face of South End's inventive cocktail menu, treated me to a memorable flight of 5 drinks, some of which are new additions for spring, while others, like the bloody mary, are ongoing house favorites.

As Nye began mixing, grabbing bottles, clinking ice into glasses, shaking, and stirring, he explained some of the things that make the cocktails at South End unique. First, his personal philosophy that it's possible to make a great tasting drink that's still nice and boozy. It's not necessary to mask alcohol with syrupy sweetness or make a drink palatable for an inexperienced drinker by going light on it, but on the flip-side, he doesn't make drinks that feature alcohol as their primary flavor note. Lucky me, as my favorite drink is one where I know it's good and strong, but it's flavorful enough to be pleasant to drink. Yes, I can appreciate the flavors when drinking whiskey neat, but it's not something I find particularly pleasurable. 

The second standout element of the bar program at South End is the use of fresh and house-made ingredients. The bacon in the bloody mary is house smoked, the mix is made from scratch, and it's topped with bright green micro-cilantro. The pineapple juice in the Mai Tai isn't from a can, it's juiced right there. The difference is clear. You're drinking a quality product, made with care and thought. 

On to the drinks. First, a refreshing concoction (as of now, still unnamed - Nye takes the time to invent creative monikers, usually with a touch of sass or humor) of Giffard Pamplemousse Rose Liquer, Vizcaya Cristal Rum, and a touch of Hum Botanical Spirit. I was genuinely blown away by this one. The first sip tastes like the offspring of grapefruit juice and lemonade, and a second sip reveals the undertones of vanilla in the rum (oak barrel aged, then filtered so it's completely clear) and the interesting combination of hibiscus, ginger, cardamom and kaffir lime in the Hum Liqueur. It's the kind of drink that makes you pause and think as you try to discern all the things you're tasting. I've really never had anything like it, and I could really feel my brain cells firing as it tried to categorize the various elements. I'd happily buy a jug of this drink and then take it to a sunny field for the best picnic libation I have yet to encounter. Sangria, step aside! Chardonnay, to the left!

Next, in the spirit of cocktails meant for sunny days and warm breezes, Nye mixed a hibiscus margarita using a larger amount of the same Hum spirit he used in the previous drink. The difference was surprising; the ginger and hibiscus came through much more than the first drink, and of course, the color was gorgeous. It made for a great twist on a standard drink, and it would be all too easy to put away several of these at a rapid pace. It went perfectly with the fish tacos we had ordered for lunch. 

Next, an in-house barrel aged Manhattan that blows, but by, every other Manhattan I've had out of the water (and I've had quite a few, from California to Connecticut). After aging for several weeks in an oak barrel, the drink is smooth, drinkable, and complex, with a lightly sweet aftertaste. If you like Manhattans, get in the car now and order one. If you don't like them, you need to give this one a try.

Nothing like day drinking! Photo courtesy Jason Varga

Moving along, I tried two very popular drinks: a bloody mary, and a Mai Tai. As I mentioned before, they're both made with fresh, house-made ingredients. The bacon on the bloody mary, smoked in-house, is to die for. This is a great accompaniment to South End's bustling Sunday brunch, and Nye says they have to make many gallons of the "liquid salsa" mix to keep up with the demand.

We ended on a tropical note with the Mai Tai; it's visually pleasing and absolutely delicious. Thanks to the use of fresh pineapple juice as opposed to canned, it's vibrantly pineapple-y and refreshing. Careful, it's strong! Rum mixed in, and a dark rum float.

Good thing there was delicious food to soak up the alcohol: fish tacos and meatballs. From start to finish, at brunch (try the whole wheat oatmeal pancakes with lemon curd and blueberries), lunch or dinner, South End is memorable. Take the trip to New Canaan, order a cocktail, settle in, and prepare to be impressed.

South End is located at 36 Pine Street, New Canaan, CT 06840. Call 203-966-5200 for reservations.

Cocktail photos courtesy South End

Sake, Sushi, and Shandies: A Visit to Miya's Sushi in New Haven

I took a trip to New Haven this week to check out Miya's Sushi. The chef, Bun Lai, was recently featured in Outdoor Magazine for his innovative use of generally overlooked plants and animals, which is too intriguing not to make the drive. 

After being seated, we were each treated to a flight of 5 different house-infused sakes: spicy honey sake, pickled ginger sake, a sweet/berry sake, a pinecone sake, and a bright green pine needle sake. Our two clear favorites were the ginger and the pine needle, and our enthusiastic server brought us a drink he had invented: half beer, half ginger sake over ice. It was like a tangy twist on a shandy, and quite refreshing! 

Our server, a young man named Brendan, was an absolute pleasure. He was patient with our questions even though he was clearly busy, and I thought it was great that he offered a drink he had come up with himself. 

Then the food started to arrive. First, pumpkin miso soup with slow roasted pumpkins, sweet potatoes, and acorn squash. It offered an interesting combination of sweet and savory flavors, but the use of winter vegetables made it more suitable for a crisp fall evening.

Next, a salad of bitter greens tossed with Miya's own wild ramp and basil dressing. The greens were reminiscent of dandelion greens, and the slightly nutty dressing was a good counterpart to the bitterness of the fresh greens. 

The sushi, dish after dish, 8 in total, arrived. Clockwise from top right: scallops, crispy fava bean tempura seasoned with home grown chilis, Iranian ghormeh sabze, and avocado; a grape leaf wrapped roll of eggplant, avocado, pickled radish, scallions, and hot pepper drizzled with olive oil; a coconut covered roll of Alaskan shrimp, cantaloupe, burdock root, and cream cheese; Fava bean tempura broccoli, roasted garlic, and black beans.

 We were both struck by how similar all the rolls tasted despite such extensive ingredients. 

Clockwise from top right: eggplant, okra, goat cheese, apricots, avocado, pickled radish, chives, and Ethiopian berbere spice mix; figs, dates, raisins, goat cheese, roasted barley, pomegranate, cinnamon, spicy red pepper, honey, pistachio, extra virgin olive oil, manna/broccoli (The menu explained, "this roll utilizes the Seven Species of the Hebrew Bible and broccoli, beloved by Jews everywhere."); cauliflower and scallions wrapped in potato, topped with toasted jersey cow’s milk cheese and lemon dill aioli sauce, a California roll made with real Maryland blue crab meat and sliced avocado, drizzled with curry sauce. 

The California roll was the favorite by far, and the curry sauce was a nice twist on such a standard roll. 

Next, a beautifully presented nice spice tilapia sashimi seasoned with a spicy citrus soy sauce and green onions. It was just spicy enough to still allow the delicate fish to shine through. 

Lastly, a trio of offerings: scallop, mackerel, and a spicy white fish (sorry to say I cannot recall what it was). The scallop was much "slimier" than what I have experienced in the past, but tasted very light and fresh. 

The meal ended with a dessert roll: fermented, sundried banana, cashew butter, strawberries, chocolate, and homemade, hand-pounded mochi, topped with baby scoops of rose petal ice cream. I can only describe it as a journey of flavors; the cold, sweet ice cream is the first thing you can taste, then it melts and blends with the chocolate, and as you keep chewing you finish with banana flavor. I have not experienced anything like it.

As we departed, happily full of unique sake (thank you, Miya's, for the treat), we couldn't help but comment on the lack of "invasive species," something the chef is known for utilizing, and the reason we had wanted to check Miya's out.  There is a menu dedicated to invasives, so we may have to return and try it out. 

Review: Stella Restaurant & Bar in Bethel, CT

Last night, after spending the afternoon lying in a sunlit field drinking fabulous locally brewed beer (Sea Hag by New England Brewing Company - check them out if you aren't familiar), it was time for food. But where to go? No desire to drive far, but we were in the mood for somewhere new.

After a mental checklist of places in the surrounding area, eureka! Stella! We had both been in the past, and weren't particularly impressed, but they've changed hands and are now chef owned. Off we went, and after the experience, I recommend making a trip over there. 

I generally prefer to try several different smaller plates rather than large entrees, and I always make an effort to order some "standard" items like calamari for the purpose of comparison to other places as well as at least one more "unique" dish. With this in mind, we ordered 4 appetizers: mussels, meatball trio, scallops, and calamari. 

The calamari arrived first, and it was delicious. Tender, crispy, and not too greasy, with a smattering of hot peppers and a tangy lemon aioli drizzled on top. Very good, and an attractive presentation. 

Next, the clear favorite: scallops. This was our "inventive" pick, as the scallops were served with pineapple chunks, edamame, and bacon. The surprising combo worked perfectly; tangy sweet pineapple, salty smoky bacon, and mild edamame to balance it all out. I really judge a restaurant by their scallops, because I know how difficult it is to get a nice sear on them without overcooking, and the chef clearly knows what he's doing. They were cooked perfectly. 

At this point, we were really pleased with the food and glad to discover a new spot. The next dish to arrive looked great but was a bit lackluster, the standard mussels in a white wine broth. It wasn't bad, but it was not memorable. An impressive amount of garlic though! 

Whoa garlic!

Lastly, the meatballs. The sauce was bright and "tomato-y" with no greasiness, which was nice. The meatballs were solid, and the presentation was interesting. They'd make great sliders.

Overall, a good experience and I'd like to try more of what they have to offer. Coming on the heels of a night at another Bethel spot, Ecco (rooftop at La Zingara), it was easy to make some mental comparisons between the two. Ecco is a great spot, and Stella absolutely holds its own. Ecco definitely has some competition down the street!

Price: 4 appetizers and 2 beers each: $65 plus tip. A little pricey for Bethel, but certainly less than Ecco, where a similar spread came to $85 plus tip.
Location: 213 Greenwood Avenue, Bethel, CT 06801

Recipe: Thai Pork Lettuce Wraps

I love lettuce wraps. They offer the perfect combination of warm filling and cool crispy lettuce, and salty sweet tanginess. The combination of textures is really satisfying. However, they're something I usually only enjoy in restaurants; they seem too complicated to make at home. I had a craving for them, and a beautiful head of butter lettuce in the fridge, so I decided to conquer my fears and make them myself! Guess what? They taste just like what you get in a restaurant, and I used way less oil than a restaurant would. Success! 

Admittedly, there are a lot of ingredients and steps, but none of if it actually difficult. The key is tasting as you go and adjusting based on your personal preferences. More sesame oil? More soy sauce? More sweet mirin? Whatever you want - it's forgivable. 

When I read a few different recipes as a jumping off point, they were full of ingredients I didn't have, like fish sauce and lemongrass. From cooking asian dishes in the past, I knew these things weren't really necessary to create complex flavors. So here's what I put together:

Ingredients: 

• 1 lb. ground pork, 80% lean
• 1 head butter lettuce
• 1 medium white onion, diced 
• 1 clove garlic, minced
• 1/4 cup water chestnuts, diced
• 1 medium carrot, diced very fine (I peeled the whole thing and then diced)
• 1 tbsp. white rice
• 1 tbsp. sesame oil
• 1 tbsp. olive oil
• 1 tbsp. minced ginger root (always use fresh, not dried and powdered!)
• 4 tbsp. soy sauce
• 1/4 cup mirin (sweetened sake - you can find it in the asian section of most supermarkets)
• 1/2 tsp. ground white pepper (this is important - it adds a different flavor from black pepper)
• Sprinkle red pepper flakes to taste
• Sprinkle toasted sesame seeds
• Spritz fresh lime juice

Steps:

1. Separate the leaves of butter lettuce, being careful not to tear them. Wash, dry, and set aside.
2. In a large, dry sauté pan, toast the rice over medium heat for about 5 minutes. You'll know it's done when the grains just begin to turn golden. 
3. In a food processor or with mortar and pestle, grind the toasted rice until it's powder. This is the worst part of the whole process! It takes forever, but it's an important ingredient. If you have a child, get them to do this part! It's fun for them, but annoying for you!
4. In the same pan, cook the pork until crumbly and no longer pink. Drain and set aside.
5. Add 1 tbsp. of olive oil to the same pan, and once it's shimmering, add the diced onion, carrot, water chestnuts, ginger, and garlic. Sauté for a few minutes, and when the start to brown, add the mirin. Cover and turn the heat down to low. You want everything to get a bit soft; let it sit for 6 minutes or so.  
6. Add the drained pork to the pan of veggies, stir to combine. Add soy sauce, sesame seeds, white pepper, and red pepper flakes.
7. Serve with lettuce leaves for wrapping, and spritz with fresh lime juice. 

Not pictured: sesame oil, white pepper, lime

Yup, this part takes forever and makes your arm hurt. It's good exercise. :-)

Recipe: Crustless Swiss Chard and Mushroom Quiche

My family just received the first batch of vegetables from this season's CSA. It seems like there's always Swiss Chard in those packages, and last year we barely used any of it! What a waste! I just don't have much experience cooking it or even seeing it in restaurants, but I know it can be used much like spinach. With that in mind, I thought I'd try to make a quiche with it. 

This recipe is a more or less "healthy" version of quiche, a traditionally heavy and calorie laden dish. First of all, it's crustless. Second of all, it uses half and half instead of heavy cream. Lastly, the volume of cream and egg mixture that often becomes the primary component of quiche is reduced, and the vegetables take center stage. If you prefer to add more cheese, go for it! Same goes for a crust (but it really doesn't need one)!

Ingredients

• 1 cup grated Swiss cheese
• 1 cup half and half
• 3 eggs
• 2 tbsp. olive oil, divided
• 1 tbsp. butter
• 1 Medium sized white onion, diced
• 1/8 tsp. nutmeg
• Salt and Pepper to taste
• 1 medium bunch Swiss chard, chopped
• 1 13 ounce container baby bella mushrooms, stems removed and slice

Steps

1. Wash, dry, and coarsely chop the swiss chard, then sauté in a large saucepan over medium heat in 1tbsp. olive oil, stirring frequently. After about 5 minutes, it will be totally wilted; remove from pan and set aside in a bowl.

 2. Melt the butter in the pan, and cook mushrooms until they release their liquid. Let the liquid cook off; about 5 minutes. Add the mushrooms to the chard and onion. 

3. Add 1 tbsp. olive oil to the pan, and sauté the onions over medium high heat until they start to soften and caramelize. (I also added some Harvey's Sherry...but that's not a necessary step) Remove the onions from pan and add to swiss chard.

4. Whisk together eggs, cream, nutmeg, salt, pepper, and grated cheese. 

5. Stir together the chard, onion, and mushroom mixture, then add it to the egg and cream mixture. Stir to combine.

 6. Pour the mix into a 9 inch glass pie pan and bake for 30-40 minutes.

     7. Remove from oven and let rest at least 10 minutes before serving (to let the center firm up).

Angry Shrimp and Barnacles! Newtown's Newest Restaurant, Barnwood Grill

There's a new dining option in Newtown; Barnwood Grill, located in the Caraluzzi's Market complex. Unassuming from the outside, it's a large space with high ceilings, brick walls, and reclaimed barn wood from Kent, CT. The dining room side has a long wall of windows, offering a romantic view of the Big Y across the street... The location isn't ideal but the bar, on the other side of the dining room, is flatteringly lit and a nice size. The long bar allows for plenty of room between seats, and high top tables run the length of the wall behind.

I didn't go with the intention to write a review, but the experience must be shared.

I heard about Barnwood Grill from a friend, and after hearing an excellent report on the food, decided to check it out. Of course, the bar is always my go-to spot, so we posted up at the corner and ordered some beers. There's a decent selection, and they had 2 Roads "Road to Ruin" Double IPA as well as Goose Island IPA, so I was happy.

We weren't hungry enough for a full-blown exploration of the menu, but we tried 4 appetizers: the tuna flatbread, stuffed mushroom, shrimp cocktail, and mussels.

With brutal honesty, I must say that we were not impressed.

The tuna flatbread was pretty to look at, but quite odd. It was essentially tuna carpaccio gone wrong. The tuna itself was good, but putting it on top of flatbread was not an enhancement. We pointedly removed all of the tuna from the flatbread and ate it plain (though it was topped with standard seaweed salad). Not bad once the offending element was removed, but not a dish I'd order again.

Tuna Flatbread

 The mussels were the smallest I have ever encountered. Like mussels for dolls. The broth, however, was tasty and we soaked it up with the warm crusty bread that had been delivered upon our arrival (along with a strongly garlic enhanced butter). Halfway through the broth soaking process we discovered a barnacle encrusted mussel and decided to move on (but not until we added it to our pointed pile of flatbread). It's not that barnacles are bad for you, but I don't want a second animal cooked with the animal I ordered. Flies live near cows, but I don't want flies in my beef, even though flies won't kill me.

Will they get the message?

By now, we were skeptical. The stuffed mushroom, which was described as having broccoli and shrimp, displayed perhaps a trace of broccoli, but there were no shrimp in attendance. The portobello mushroom cap was nicely cooked though, and it was served over julienned sauteed vegetables that were quite tasty. I'd be happy with just a plate of those. Personally, I prefer several small mushrooms when I order stuffed mushrooms, but that's just personal taste.

Lastly, we tried the cold shrimp cocktail. A resounding fail. They were extremely tough. Unreasonably tough. So tough that we could only ruminate on what sad, difficult, painful childhoods they must have had to end up in such a state.

Angry shrimp

Conclusion: I will still go back, because the beer selection is good, the ambiance in the bar was pleasant, and it's a change of scene. I'd even try more food, but next time I'll stick to the standards. Calamari and salad, anyone? 

Appetizers: $10-$15
Entrees: $16-$25